![]() When you paint a fender, it's often necessary to blend into the door, so the panel-gap does not contrast and exasperate the slight color variation. a fender and a door are on the same plane (while a hood, trunk, or bumper are typically on perpendicular planes from a fender). Any change in color is more noticeable when it's on the same plane - e.g. Blend panels on the same plane don't end at body gaps.There are almost always variations in batch and manufacturers make slight changes to color formulas over the years, so paint code is not always enough by itself. Always provide the paint code and the VIN when you have paint mixed.Here are some tips to hiding paint lines and minimizing their noticeability: ![]() ![]() You already got some good advice on buffing and polishing. It may not be sensible to buy a machine polisher for just a spot-fix, as they do carry a >$100 price-tag. In your case, I recommend hand-polishing. DA (Dual Action) polishers are quite paint-safe and do not carry the risk of damaging the working surface or burning through it. Hand polishing can be time-consuming and can often lead to defects such as holograms on your working surface. You can polish either by hand or by machine. New layers of paint and clear top-coat tend to be quite thick, and thus require a more abrasive compound to even out the differences between it and the original surrounding coat.Ĭutting compound leaves behind a dulling or hazing effect on a coat of paint, which pure polishing compound (NOT a glaze) repairs, glossing it along the way. In this scenario, I recommend using a separate cutting and polishing compound as opposed to a mixture of the two, often seen in auto stores as 'cut 'n' polish'. To diminish (or completely remove) the contrasting effect, you will need to cut and polish the working area and the area surrounding it. If your vehicle is of earlier make and model, it is possible that your vehicle does not have a clear top-coat at all, but rather just a very thick base coat. This effect may be emphasized if your original coat of paint uses a clear top-coat and you did not apply a new top-coat to your working area. The cut-off lines you describe could possibly be due to the contrast between the fresh coat against the faded original coat. Barring extreme cases, this process is usually not noticeable unless there is a new coat of paint to compare it to. Over time, the original paint of a vehicle fades and oxidises. Just for further elaboration, do you mean a line between your new coat of paint and the previous coat of paint? Is it possible you supply a picture please?
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